Sval sommerkjole, fra A-Å

I dag vil jeg vise et syprosjekt fra A til Å, hvor resultatet skal bli en sval sommerkjole i bomullspoplin. Denne våren er dedikert til blant annet blåtoner, som minner meg om den deilige følelsen jeg alltid kjenner ved sjøen.

A. Idé. Et givende skapende prosjekt begynner med idéen. Et inntrykk forplanter seg videre i fantasien, og idéen konkretiseres i noe som presser frem skapertrangen. Det handler om inspirasjon! Selv inspireres jeg av medmennesker, filmer, linjer og farger i naturen, strofer i en melodi, tekstiler, minner… Inntrykk fra det levende livet! Min konkrete idé denne gangen er en del av en større idé, om en hel kolleksjon. Jeg vil skape superfeminine plagg som hyller kvinnekroppen, er komfortable og som tåler et aktivt liv, og som har et relativt tidløst design. Vil også at samtlige plagg skal kunne kombineres til både sneakers og stiletter.

B. Mønster. Når jeg vet hva jeg vil sy, så leter jeg etter et godt grunnmønster. Jeg liker ikke å kopiere det jeg ser, vil skape noe eget. Men et godt mønster som utgangspunkt gir etter min erfaring de beste resultatene. Denne gangen falt valget på et mønster i britiske Burda Style 4/2019:

C. Tekstilvalg. Å velge det riktige stoffet er gjerne nøkkelen til et vellykket plagg. Til sommerkjoler kan man sy om sengetøy eller skjorter, eller finne noe velegnet i stoffbutikker. Selv ser jeg etter det som “snakker til meg”. Jeg må kjenne at stoffet “treffer” både taktilt, visuelt når det beveger seg, og farger og eventuelt mønster må fungere. Det må treffe meg som en deilig eller fengende melodi. En ting til, sjekk hvor mye stoff som går med til det aktuelle plagget! Det står i mønsterbeskrivelsen.

D. Vask stoffet før delene klippes ut! Å hoppe over dette medfører gjerne at plagget ikke passer etter vask på grunn av krymping.

E. Les hele mønsterbeskrivelsen nøye.

F. Tegn av mønsteret. Om mønsteret er fra “Stoff & Stil” er det klart til bruk. Men mønstrene fra Burda Style må tegnes av. Tidligere brukte jeg matpapir. Nå har jeg et gjennomsiktig mønsterstoff fra “Stoff & Stil” til kr 10,- pr meter som jeg legger over og tegner av. Merker delene nøye, og klipper de ut.

G. Stryk det nyvaskede stoffet

H. Gå over gulvet med tørrmopp. Gulvet er eminento til å legge utover både stoff og mønster, og så krabber man rundt og klipper og tegner.

I. Legg mønsterdelene på stoffet. Se etter hvordan delene plasseres på stoffet i mønsterbeskrivelsen. Viktig: vær konsekvent med å legge delene med trådretning. Slurving på dette kan resultere i irriterende rar passform.

J. Tegn rundt mønsterdelene med kritt. Bruk knappenåler eller tøyvekter for å holde mønsteret på plass.

K. Klipping. Aller først, finn ut om sømmonn er inkludert. Burda Style har som regel ikke det, så legg til det aktuelle sømmonnet rundt hver del.

L. Ta en kopp kaffe eller te. Jeg går for en cappuccino vanilla. Stress ned, gjør færre feil.

M. Spol opp bunntråd, og gjør klar symaskinen. Velg en tråd som ikke “forstyrrer” opplevelsen av stoffet.

N. Gjør klart strykejern og strykebrett

O. Se over sømbeskrivelsen igjen. Følg den punktvis, og sett en hake ved hvert punkt etter hvert som de utføres.

P. Press hver søm forløpende

Q. Tål å plages. Noen ganger blir det feil i søm, feil i klipping, bunntråden snurper seg, tråden ryker, og mønsteret på tysk oppleves ubegripelig! For å nevne noe. En ekspert er en som har gjort alle feil. Ta en liten pause, gjør noe hyggelig, men ikke gi opp! Begynn forfra/sprett opp/be om hjelp. Det kjennes deilig når man til slutt får ting til å klaffe!

R. Sy overlock eller sikksakk for hver søm

S. Vlisofiks? I kraver og i mansjetter er det ofte vlisofiks, et slags limstoff som stiver av. Strykes på de aktuelle delene før sammensying.

T. Vær nøye, med alt!

U. Kos deg! Sjokolade? Ja takk✨

V. Håndsøm. Litt håndsøm følger nesten alltid med om man er nøye. Det er jo ønskelig med et gjennomgående pent sluttresultat? Små usynlige sting der man ikke vil ha en synlig søm. For øvrig en hyggelig aktivitet når man ikke har det travelt.

W. Sømmometer. Et godt målingsverktøy er til stor hjelp både under opptegning av sømmonn, og måling av opplegg av søm. En relativt nyanskaffelse for min del, som jeg nå bruker flittig under hele syprosessen.❤️

X. Synålen på maskinen bøyer seg/brekker. Grrr, det er så ergerlig når dette skjer! Nålen traff en knappenål, og “dett var dett”. Ut med den, og inn med en ny. Ikke noe kaffepause mellom her.

Y. Knapper. Jeg elsker knapper! De er som små smykker. Denne gangen falt valget på noen som minner meg om en havflate. De er av perlemor, med et dempet grønnskjær.

Z. Knapphull. Om det er noe som som gir meg sommerfugler i magen, så er det plassering og søm av knappehull. Åpenbart fordi jeg trenger mer mengdetrening! Er alltid nervøs for å ødelegge hele plagget med stygge knappehull. Jeg merker av knappehullene med kulepenn.

Æ. Passform. Tilpasses under veis. Det skal se pent ut, men må ha god bevegelighet også.

Ø. Stoffrester? Dukkeklær til fremtidig barnebarn.

Å. Kjolen er ferdig! Jumbalaia, for en god følelse! Nå skal jeg ut i sola og nyte våren sammen med familien!

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