Publisert av elisabethrokic.com

Montering av genser

Når ermer og bole strikkes hver for seg, kan monteringen av genseren være en akilleshæl. Ermefeste kan ende opp klumpete, det kan rakne der det klippes opp, og hele plagget kan bli skakt og skjevt. Men om hvert steg av monteringen gjøres nøye, så kommer alle timene med strikking til sin rett i form av en deilig og anvendelig strikkegenser. Det er helt sikkert mange måter å montere en genser på, men jeg skal vise hvordan jeg går frem, steg for steg. Metoden som vises under er testet ut gjennom snart 30 år med strikking, på gensere fra babystørrelse og opp til store herregensere. Plaggene har holdt fasongen og er hele og fine i år etter år med aktiv bruk, og har gått i arv i søskenflokken her.

Én ting til. Før selve monteringen er det lurt å ta en kopp kaffe, eller ta et avbrekk hvor skuldrene får senket seg slik at det ikke gjøres uopprettelige feil på plagget. Nøysomhetsarbeid og stress er en uheldig kombinasjon.

1. Når ermet har nådd lengden sin, vend ermet og strikk 4 omganger rundt før felling. Denne “kanten” ser vrang ut fra rettsiden, og skal skjule sammensyingen med bolen fra vrangen.

2. Fest alle løse tråder pent ved å sy dem inn på vrangen. (Knuter blir aldri pent) Jeg bruker å feste ca 10 cm av tråden før jeg klipper av.

3. Damp alle delene, ved å legge et fuktet kjøkkenhåndkle mellom strikkedelen og strykejernet, og press forsiktig på det våte kjøkkenhåndkleet med strykejernet. Det blir litt som å stemple rundt på hele strikkedelen til den er glatt og fin. Åpningen på ermer og bol vil rulle seg sammen, og kan festes til strykebrettet med knappenåler før de dampes. La det tørke før nålene fjernes.

4. Marker ermehull på bolen med en kontrastråd, og mål eksakt lengde ved å legge øverste del av ermet der de skal festes. Sy to runder, lett overlappende, med sikksakksøm (med symaskin) på hver side av kontrasttråden.

4. Klipp opp ermehull ved å følge kontrasttråden. La den øverste strikkeomgangen på bolen være hel.

5. Fest ermet til ermehullet ved å vrenge bolen og ta inn ermeåpningen gjennom hullet. Fest tett med knappenåler. Unngå å strekke i delene. Sy en runde med rett søm på symaskinen. Fest sømmen godt både ved begynnelse og slutt på sømmen.

6. Sy fast “kanten” på ermet på innsiden av bolen med ullgarn i genserfargen for hånd, med nette pene sting.

7. Når begge ermene er festet, syes deler av skuldrene sammen på bolen. Ikke fest tråden, men la den være til etter at halsen er ferdig.

8. Damp sammenføyningene mellom ermer og bol.

9. Halskanten strikkes til slutt. Finn midten på plagget, og marker ønsket halsform/størrelse/utringning ved å sy med kontrastfarget garn og stppopprnål.

10. Plukk opp masker med liten rundpunne i samme nummer som vrangborder ble strikket med. Strikk ønsket lengde, og ta hensyn til at denne kanten skal brettes dobbelt.

11. Når alle deler er strikket helt ferdig, sy to runder med sikksakksøm på symaskin over kontrasttråden i halsåpningen. Klipp bort det som er over sømmen.

12. Brett halskanten dobbel, og sy fast vrangborden med ullgarn og stoppenål rett under makinsømmen på plaggets innside.

13. Damp halskanten forsiktig, og sy sammen det siste ved skuldrene.

14. Voila, genseren er klar til bruk!

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